A week in Vanuatu

WEDNESDAY.
After a good night's sleep we got up and ready and went down to breakfast where the service was better than last night's dinner. I went to the loo and as I came out walked the wrong way and straight into a huge mirror wall!!! Heather was watching and nearly fell off her chair laughing. Fortunately for me nobody else saw!

After breakfast and checking out we walked across the road to the airport, this is a very convenient hotel. We checked in quickly and went through immigration all in about ten minutes. The airport was so quiet due to all the flights across to Australia being cancelled due to the ash cloud. We looked through the shops and bought the duty free and some perfume and then went for a coffee and a muffin.

Our gate as one of the farthest away so we had a long walk to get there. We boarded the flight which was full and a tight squeeze, just like Ryan air. Heather had a very annoying and arrogant young man in front of her who chose to lie his seat back for the whole of the flight even though he was not leaning back in the seat. The flight was so full as many people used it as a way to get back to Oz. They were flying up to Vanuatu and then across to Oz - a very long way to get home!!

The food was pretty awful on the flight and there was not much on the TV but as far as flights go it was very smooth but a long three and a half hours!

As we were landing we could see all over the island of Efate and it looked really green. The airport itself is very small and only has flights from NZ and Oz plus their own internal flights to the other main islands. Vanuatu is made up of 83 islands but only a few have airports and only one other has international flights. Efate is the most populated island and has the capital of Port Vila on it with a population of 45,000 but were they all are I don't know!

The heat hit us when we got off the plane and as we were in winter clothes we felt very hot. Clearing customs and immigration was quick and as we got through we were met by or driver and given a shell necklace each. We went out to the minibus and he gave us a lovely frozen facecloth and a really chilled bottle of water and both were very welcome.

The drive to our hotel took 15 minutes and you could see immediately how poor the country is. The road was full of potholes, the vehicles old and scruffy and lots of groups of ladies sitting under trees along the road selling fruit and vegetables.

We arrived at our hotel 'Poppy's on the Lagoon' and were very pleased to see where it was located. The rooms were built around a main pool, which was quite small but the gardens were lovely with beautiful plants all around and very well cared for. The hotel is on a lagoon with a mainly coral reef beach so reef shoes are a

Our apartment was upstairs and overlooked the pool and lagoon. The room was not of a particularly high standard and not what Jon and I would have chosen but we had to consider Heather as she was paying for it herself but it was clean which is very important. My first impression was that it was not as nice as Fiji and they are a long way behind with tourism.

The system for ordering food and drinks was very odd. We had to order at reception and the girl put it on the computer to charge to our room and then printed a slip off which another girl took across to the kitchen. They cooked it and brought it out to you. Not sure what happened in translation though as so many time we never got what we had ordered. That said, they are such lovely, friendly people it is hard to get cross as they just smile and say 'sorry' and go and get the right thing.

We had a meeting with some of the staff and they told us what was available and all about the bus system and taxi service. The hotel was down a very steep hill so we thought we might be using taxis more than buses as the taxis pick you up at the door. The buses you have to walk up to the road. There is not much difference in some of the buses and taxis and the only way to tell is a bust has a 'B' on the registration and a taxi 'T'. The buses come along very frequently and are very cheap. If you are first on you get dropped off first. Their are no routes but this means if you are last on you could end up going for a very long ride to get to where you want to go!

We went out for a walk and to go to a supermarket to buy some water and beer. We walked into town which we were told was 15 minutes. We now know that is 15 minutes 'island time' and it was a lot longer so we won't be doing it again especially in the heat and humidity.

We bought what we needed and got in a taxi to bring us back. We told the driver the hotel name but he took us to a very different hotel and then said 'Is this it?'. We said no and he asked us where it was. Now we had only been on the island a few hours and had no idea where we were so we were no help at all. He had to get out and ask another driver and he eventually got us back.

We had dinner at the hotel and it was OKish but there are no tables set with clothes, no waiters and every time you want another drink or pudding you have to go to reception and go through the whole ordering bit again. This for me was the biggest down to the hotel. I like to sit and see a menu and choose what I want over a drink not stand in the reception but never mind we are here and we have to make the best of it.

The apartment didn't have AC but it did have big ceiling fans which I prefer so off we went to bed and hopefully a good sleep.

THURSDAY - Jon's birthday
Well I slept well but Jon and Heather didn't and Heather had a huge bite on her back. Jon really liked his presents we brought with us. I bought him four gliding classes and he is really pleased as it is something he has wanted to do for ages. We went down for breakfast which was included in the deal. We had lime juice, fruit place or fruit smoothie, toast or croissant and tea/coffee/hot chocolate. There was also a menu to choose extras from. The fruit looked pretty naff but it is all organic, in fact, the whole island is organic and they have no pests and do not need to spray any of the crops which is pretty impressive. The fruit tasted much nice than it looked so all in all a good start.

We then went to book some excursions and booked to go horse riding after lunch, a buggy safari for Friday, Tann Island and volcano for Saturday, Sunday free and a round island trip for Monday.

We spent the morning by the pool but there are only four sunbeds and very little room to move them to catch the sun. I was a little worried where mine was as it was just below a very heavily laden coconut tree! Jon and Heather went out on the free hotel kayaks. I had a go but really didn't feel safe so I came back in. They went right across to the other side of the lagoon and really enjoyed it.

We had an early lunch as we had to get off horse riding. Jon and I ordered burgers and Heather ordered a plain cheeseburger, meaning no lettuce, tomato or mayo. When the food arrived Heather's was just a toasted bun with cheese on it!!!! Mine was raw and Jon's was OK. I sent mine back and we asked for the burger for Heather. Eventually they came back but mine was still raw so I left it and so did Heather!

We were picked up by a very old black man with white hair and taken out to the stables. We saddled up and set off through the coconut plantations, us three and a guide. My horse, Boy, ate grass all the way along and kept pulling me forward as he bent his head to eat it and every time my knuckles rubbed against the saddle and he just wouldn't stop he ate so much. Jon's was called Charlie and Heather's Mia. They were very docile and sometimes wouldn't move until the guide made them. It was a long trip and over two hours and we were very saddle sore by the time we got back. Jon and Heather didn't mention that the paper hat they give you to wear under the helmet was showing all the time I was riding and in the photos I look like Ena Sharples with a hairnet on!!! How mean are they?

They unsaddled the horses and then we were able to mount them bareback and ride them into the lagoon. I never knew a horses back was no bony and the spine really is uncomfortable. We managed to get them into the water but they wouldn't do much so we just stood about for a while and then came out but it was nice to do but I don't think I will be able to sit down for a week.

Heather now has lots of bites. We showered and asked reception to book a taxi for us and we went into the town. We went to the supermarket first as they close early, it is not like Spanish resorts with the shops open till late. We then went for dinner to a nice place called Chill. It was on the harbour and they have bright lights shining into the water and you can see the fish swimming around, very pretty. We enjoyed our cocktails and dinner and a nice decaf coffee before getting a taxi back to the hotel and bed.

FRIDAY
Breakfast was a bit of a rush this morning as we were due to be picked up to go on our Buggy Safari.

We thought we would be taken to a place outside the 'city' to get into the buggies and were shocked to be driven only five minutes up the road!!! We were given a brief safety chat and had to sign a disclaimer should anything happen to us and then given more paper hats to put on under the safety helmets (I made sure mine was well tucked in this time). All the men's helmets had horns on. We got into our vehicles which looked 'well used' and I had to have our beach bag on the floor between my legs which was a little uncomfortable!!

By now I was panicking as Heather was in the buggy in front and we were going to have to drive out of the city in convoy and she has never driven on the 'other side of the road' before!! WE set off with a guide on a huge cross country bike in front and one behind, very reassuring. One of the staff stopped the traffic to get us all out together but about 100 yards down the road was a roundabout!!!! It was busy and nobody would give way and half had already gone through so eventually the guide from the back came and stopped the traffic and then we were off. It was great fun and you felt you were going really fast but as the speedometer didn't work we had no idea of the speed!!! The road out to the country was full of potholes and we had to try and miss them. Eventually, Heather gave us the 'thumbs up' so I knew she was fine.

We seemed to go for miles passing factories and shops and eventually villages where all the children ran out wave and slap your hand as you passed. They are so poor and many had no clothes on but all were so happy to see us. The dust was amazing and at places Jon was driving blind. I was regretting wearing a white T shirt!.

We eventually stopped on a beach and it was so funny to see how dirty we all were. After a walk around the beach and realising we had forgotten our water bottles we set off again through more dust tracks and villages till we eventually arrived at the bar where we were to have brunch.

Unfortunately, just as we arrived we had one of many tropical downpours. We managed to wash some of the dust of while waiting for the rain to pass and then we went down to the jetty to feed the fish on the coral reef. The owners are building a new jetty but by the looks of it he is going to be a long time building. I am sure once it is done the view of the fish on the reef will be amazing. We walked on the reef and saw beautiful bright blue starfish.

Eventually, our brunch was ready and it was really good with some yummy sausages. We had French bread and butter sausages, beef steaks, salad and sweet grapefruit and papaya for pudding. Unfortunately, we didn't have any 'Vatu' money with us as we thought it was all included and we had forgotten our water so we could only scrape up enough money for two drinks. I drank some water and I think this might have been a mistake!!!

After brunch we all set off again in our very wet buggies. As Jon and I had been last we were told to go first so not so much dust in our faces. Getting back into the city was incredible. We were in a traffic jam and it was so funny with people looking at us in our dirty clothes with dirty faces and men with horns on their helmets!!!

Eventually, we arrived back at the depot safe and sound after a really fun morning. So it was back to the hotel and who would be first into the shower and more clean clothes!

We had a lot of rain in the afternoon but we were able to walk into town and have a look around and do some shopping. However, there is not much to buy in the way of anything really so souvenirs were thin on the ground but we managed to get a few things for the girls.

We then went to have a look at the fruit market which is amazing and open 24 hours six days a week. The women bring their produce to town and set up on tables in the market and have most of the family with them. They sleep under the tables and there is a corner where they can cook food and there they stay till they have sold everything. They then return to their village and prepare to do the same next week. They weave lovely bags from coconut leave and the vegetables are sold in them so no plastic bags needed. Sadly we couldn't bring one back with us as we would not be allowed to bring it into NZ. The variety of fruit is nothing like an English market and most of the fruit I didn't know but they do sell huge, sweet, pink grapefruit. We bought one and it cost next to nothing and was so good.

We got a taxi back and then got ready to go out for dinner.

The owner of the hotel was just going out as we were and he offered to take us so we didn't need to get a taxi.

We went to the Waterfront for dinner and had a good meal with a live band playing. After our meal we walked to the market square to get a taxi back.

SATURDAY
It seemed to rain all night and was still raining when we had to get up. We managed to have our breakfast before the taxi came to take us to the airport. I was getting worried as the rain was so heavy and wondered how we would be able to go in such bad weather.

The domestic airport is so small with one departure gate and two check in desks but it does have Wifi which Heather was pleased about. We were told we might not be able to fly as, although the weather was good on Tanna it was pretty bad in Efate. We waited till 9.00 and then the pilot came to tell us we could go.

Our plane was a little Cessna for six people and we had a young Australian couple with us who I think might have been on honeymoon. Our plane which was bright yellow looked so small. Heather and I were in the back and Jon and the Australian woman in the middle and her husband up front with the pilot.

I really shouldn't have worried as the take off was smooth and once up we managed to get out of the rain and the journey was very smooth and much better than the Pacific Blue flight to Sydney a few weeks ago.

We arrived on Tanna in beautiful bright sunshine and no other planes on the runway. The airport, which is going to open to international flights next year, is really small but they do have a fire engine! We had to pay our departure tax when we arrived as they said the airport would be closed when we came back - our flight was going to be at 3.30 in the afternoon!!!

I went to the loo and the notice on the wall in Pidgin said 'Pis Pis long bowl, no pis pis long floor'! I think everyone can understand that.

We were picked up in a very new Land rover Jeep and all sat in the back. We were taken to a small hotel and given a drink of lime juice before setting off on our two hour trek.

You could not call most of them roads as they were just dirt and had big splits in them and fell away at the edges due to recent heavy rain. We bounced along and had to hold on tight, we banged our heads on the top bars but it was all good fun. Seeing how these people live was a real eye opener. I really did not think people still lived in huts like that and went around in such clothes - but they have a lot of mobile phones and top up sheds/shacks in some really out of the way places.

We came across an accident where a ute had turned upside down. Not sure how as the road was so narrow but the driver said it was the brakes. One man had been air lifted to hospital but the others were fine.

We got to the ash plane and stopped for lunch. The lunch had been carried in a cardboard box under the seat on the back of the jeep, not even in the cab where it was cooler!! It was seven sandwiches made on thick sweet bread with a slice of beef steak, onion, cucumber and lettuce. Pudding was a Mandarin orange and drink was a bottle of lemon juice. For the amount we paid for the trip it was pretty poor and at least they could have stored it in a chilly bin. Another possible for my tummy trouble the next four days. Heather wouldn't even try it so went without food for the whole day as you don't find bars and shops to stop and buy things. no corner shops on these islands!

The ash plane was amazing and looking up to the volcano was fantastic. We then continued on and drove through a river and on up to the volcano passing through the village at the bottom, not a place I would like to live with an active volcano in my backyard.

As we got nearer to the top the road was smoking!! We parked at the bottom of a track and then had a 400 yard walk to the crater rim. We have never experienced anything like it. There were flashes of lightening in the crater, bangs and rumbles and the ground shook then boulders were thrown into the air and you could see they were red hot. Then smoke came billowing up from the three holes. Mt Yasur has been erupting sine 2010. It had been downgraded to a level 2 more than that and you are not allowed to get so close. Some of the boulders are the size of cars. It is so impressive. Strangely, it does not smell like White Island and is much more scary. The ash come down on top of you and first we thought it was rain and then you see it on your skin. My head was covered in it and it felt like I had been on the beach on a windy day and was covered in sand. We could have stood there for hours. Jon had wanted to do the night trip but after seeing the road he was glad that Heather and I said no.

Heather and I headed down to the parking area as we wanted to go to the loo before the two hour trek back. The loo was just a three sided coconut screen, no door, no roof and just a wooden seat covered in about three inches of volcanic ash. Yes I just had to go and eventually so did Heather.

The ride back was just as bumpy but didn't seem so long. We passed the accident spot and they had righted the ute and were trying to start it.

We arrived at the airport at the same time as the pilot and so all we had to do was climb aboard and off we went. The flight back was fine and much clearer and after one hour we were back. We got a taxi back to the hotel and all wanted to shower first and yet more dirty clothes. Two hair washes and I can still feel the ash.

Heather ordered a bowl of chips as she was hungry and then we sat and had a bit of a rest before going out to dinner.

There is an Australian family in the apartment next door and although it is detached the noise of one of their children crying is driving most of the hotel mad. He is about 18 months old and cries all the time and especially so if his dad goes out. As the floors are tiled the noise echoes and it is awful but they never seem to try and stop him Arggggg!!!

We ordered a taxi to take us out and got him to take us to a cash machine as we seem to be using so much money, eating out is certainly not cheap here. He then took us to Rendevous for dinner and gave us his number to call him to take us back.

We had a nice dinner but we were all very tired. We called 'Nial' and he came in a few minutes and took us back and we were more than ready for bed and sleep - child next door permitting!!!

SUNDAY
Today we are relaxing and so we had a late start and a late breakfast before going down to the little hotel beach where we managed to grab the three sunbeds - just as well there are no Germans in this hotel!! Lovely morning but not much sun but very warm. Jon and Heather went out on the kayaks again while I enjoyed reading my ereader.

We had a beer on the beach and I took the two glasses back when we went to order luch. We ordered another two beers and sat at a table to wait for lunch and drinks (we chose toasted cheese sandwiches as they can't do much wrong with them and they won' be rare). The lunch came but no drinks so I went back to reception and she said she had forgotten and went and got two beers. I asked for two glasses and our dirty ones were still sittling on the bar with sand on the bottoms and she told me they only have two beer glasses!!!! The Ozzies must drink out of the bottles. I asked her if she could wash them which she did. They don't use their common sense thats for sure.

In the evening I had been reading about Iriiriki Island and saw that it had a good restaurant and was reached by a three minute ferry trip and as it sounded nice we went there. To get to the ferry you have to go through The Grand Hotel and Casino reception and the young chap on reception was very kind and showed us where to go. The ferry was just leaving so he whistled to him and he came back for us.

It is only a short crossing and is free but it was very nice to be in a boar at night and see all the fish. The resort is very pretty, no beach on the island but it does have three pools and areas that you can go snorkeling from. Part of the resort is adults only and with that awful child next door I am beginning to think it is a good idea. A young waiter from the Seychelles saw us looking around and said he would show us the way, really nice chatty young man who is there for two years.

The bar and restaurant were really lovely with a lovely deck area where we sat and had cocktails and looked at the menu. There was no problem with Heather either as they said she could choose from the bar menu so we were all happy. When we sat at our table I saw a huge rat run across the deck and then Heather saw a mouse in the dining room and in the loo we saw a huge cockroach. Maybe Poppy's and the crying child is not so bad!!

MONDAY
My birthday and we were off on a round the island trip and decided it would be quicker to order breakfast in our room as we needed to be ready early - wrong, it took forever. I didn't want much as my tummy was making very odd noises and felt very painful.

Our bus arrived and we set off to pick a couple of people up from Erakor Island but they didn't get off tow ferries so we went without them. The next stop was two ladies from Australia. They got on the bus and one said 'My friend is not very well so we don't want to sit at the back'. This made Heather and I panic but then we set off out of town and I was convincing myself that maybe she was just an 'ill' woman when suddenly she shouted 'Will you please stop I am going to be sick'. Day ruined for Heather and I!!! I told the other lady we would move and let them sit right at the front as I didn't want her bing sick down our backs.

Our first stop was at Eton Beach which was just beautiful. We put our reef shoes on and walked in the water and the 'blue hole' which is where the river meets the sea. The sick woman's friend told us her friend was travel sick. Why would you sign up for a seven hour bus trip if you are travel sick?????

The guide, Maurice and the driver Joel were really nice and full of information. They prepared fresh fruit and banana chips and sweet potato chips for us and drinks. The toilet there was just a bowl and you had to pour a bucket of water down after you!! But it was clean and didn't smell.

We set off and the rest of the trip was just a dream. The road around the island, Efate Ring Road, is new and part of a millenium project given by the Americans to Efate, it is really smooth and much better than the roads in the city. We did not pass one shop or cafe on the whole road 144kms (much less distance than driving to Auckland) there is nothing much at all out of the city and no petrol stations either.

We stopped at a lovely place for lunch and Heather and I went in for a swim, she didn't want to but I told her she HAD to swim in the S Pacific ocean so she did but as it was shallow you had to be careful. To get out into deeper water you had to cross the reef which was a bit rough and a long way.

Lunch was fine, chicken casserole, a beef mince sauce, shredded beef and veg and rice and homemade bread but no pudding. They told us we could buy drinks so we ordered two beers, (we had money today) but they only had one beer so we had to share. You really can't get cross with these people as they are so nice. There was a little craft stall set up near the restaurant but they had put very high prices on things compared to the town which although I feel sorry for them is a bit silly as I don't like to feel cheated so we didn't buy anything. There was a little child there about age three, and I gave her one of the pencils we had brought with us from NZ (we had been told they don't like tips but accept little gifts). This childs face was a picture and she had the biggest smile. I then gave her a keyring and she was so happy. I took her photo and showed it to her on the camera. I will get a copy and send it to Maurice to pass on to her, she was so sweet. There are not many countries in the world where a child would be so happy with a pencil.

After lunch we went to a nature reserve which was really pretty and on the coast. WE had hoped to see a dugong in the sea there as they are common in that area but we didn't which was a shame.

Our last stop was at the Mele Cascades. This was when I realised I had left the bag of reef shoes at the place we stopped for lunch!!! Oh dear.

We walked though the woods and along and through the river till we got to nearly the top. We then put our swimming things on and the guide helped us to walk up the waterfall to the top pool and then we swam in the pool and stood underneath the 35 foot fall and it was so beautiful and certainly worth sitting on the bus with a sick 'Shelagh' for.

After our fill of swimming we walked back to the bottom and had another swim in the bottom pool before going and having a cup of tea and some biscuits and it was the best cup of tea I had in the whole week and a lovely way to spend my birthday.

We went out for my birthday dinner to a French restaurant which looked very nice and where we had a beer earlier in the week to shelter from a downpour. Unfortunately it was not good. I ordered a plain steak, medium. When it came it had the green peppercorn sauce on and it was so rare it looked like it could have walked to the table on its own!!! Jon had veal cutlets done in filo pastry with feta cheese and it was tough as old boots. Heather did well with pasta carbonara. Jon and I didn't eat ours and told the waiter it was bad and so he said I could have my glass of wine free. He took the plates back to the kitchen and I saw him talking to a man and when he came back he told us the food would be taken off the bill and we could have another glass of wine. I ended up having my pina colada before dinner and also a vodka cocktail Heather ordered and did not like plus two glasses of wine and all on an empty tummy!! Certainly not the best birthday dinner I have had, just as well the day trip was so good.

We caught a taxi outside and the young driver was very chatty and we told him we were going out to Erakor Island tomorrow and so he gave us his number and asked us if we would use him. They are so poor but so nice and friendly and we told him we would.

Had coffee in the apartment and watched them spray the site for mozzies, Jon was very interested in the process.

TUESDAY AND OUR LAST DAY
Woke up with really bad tummy pains this morning but did not feel ill. We, well Jon and Heather, managed to get the right order for breakfast this morning which is the first time out of the whole week. We watched them bringing down coconuts from the tree where I was sunbathing the oterh day. I am glad none fell on my head. They are holding a cultural night tonight in the hotel and we said we wouldn't go as the food had been so bad but we felt mean and so booked in but Heather and I are going for vege burgers and Jon the steak, the other option was chicken.

We calaled James to come and get us to go to the Erakor Island ferry, he was a little late but the day was once again overcast so no hurry to get out into the sun!! When he arrived we set off up the hill but his car had a bit of trouble getting up to the top so he had to let it roll down and then tried again and we went shooting to the top with the smell of burning rubber!!! We got to a busy junction and had to turn left but the car stopped and would not start again!! Amazingly not one car sounded their horn and they all just managed to get around. He told us we would ahve to go the rest of the way by bus and it just happened that his cousin was passing inhis bus so he stopped him and asked him to take us the rest of the way and even though we were last on he dropped us off first and nobody complained and some of them had a little chat to us.

We got to the ferry and you have to buy a ticket for 1000vatu but this is taken off whatever you buy to eat and drink there or kayak hire so it is a good deal and just stops people using the ferry as a free ride.

We all loved Erakor and wished we had been staying there. It only has about 30 little bungalows and you can walk round it in half an hour but it is so pretty with a lovely little chapel for weddings and an old missionary house from the 1800s. There are signs telling you to be careful of falling coconuts and the little beach is white soft sand with hundreds of starfish. There are LOTS of sunbeds, sunshades and a beach bar with waiters sooooo nice I could have stayed another week there. It was just as well we didn't need our reef shoes as the guide had said he would pick them up and bring them back to us but didn't so I hope they have found a good home.

Jon and Heather went out in a clear plastic kayak and could see the fish and hundreds more starfish, I think it must be a good breeding ground for them as there are lots of baby ones you have to be careful of as they are the same colour as the sand but the adult ones are huge and if you stood on one it would really hurt as they are tough with big spiny lumps on their backs. We made our initials out of them and went off for lunch. The staff were all very polite and we had a lovely lunch and it was, despite my tummy pains, the best meal of the week and we had two lovely puddings to share.

When we got back to the beach the starfish had moved away, but not far but you can hardly see them move. We had a nice sleep before it was time to pack up and head back. The ferry could see us getting ready to leave and so they waited for us and lots of the resort staff were going on it, too but they waited for us to get on before they did and I felt quite mean as we are no better than them. When we got off we got on the bus and once again I felt mean as this is obviously a bus that waits for them but with three tourists extra there were not enough seats for them all and so some of them started to walk. We did not realise this till it was too late and had a taxi been there we would have got that. Still they all seemed happy so off we set. The driver was so busy talking on his mobile that he went past our hotel and all the other passengers shouted at him to stop and it was a huge joke with everyone laughing, what nice people they are.

We just had enough time to shower and get ready for the 6.00 start to the cultural evening. We were put on a table with the manager and two Australian women who were really loud and a bit coarse, typical 'Shelaghs' I think. The staff talked about the food we would eat and how it was prepared and we started with the fresh coconuts they had harvested this morning. The top was shaped and a straw was in the top and we had to drink some of the milk and then they poured some rum into it and it was lovely. We were given headresses made of woven coconut leaves to wear and everyone was in a good mood and we were glad we decided to attend. They had a 'string band' playing music and the instruments really did have 'strings' on them.

The food was really good with some lovely salads and vegetable dishes, Jon's steak was delicious and our vege burgers good but a little cold. All in all very nice and I think if the manager let the chef prepare typical food dishes instead of trying to teach him Western food it would all be much better.

Dessert was mainly fruit and the staff told us all the names and most of it we would never see in Europe. They aslo had tow lovely cakes one with fruit and the other with coconut and lemons.

They then played music and we had to dance and even Jon got up. The security guard was there dancing, too with his big torch in his hand, very funny to watch. They asked who had had a birthday this week and we said we had so the band sang happy birthday to us and the second verse is really sweet as the words are 'Have a long life for you' to the same tune. So all in all a really enjoyable night apart from the Australian women.

There was lots of talk of flights cancelled due to the ash. I hope ours isn't as we have to get up at 4.00 and leave for the airport at 4.45 so we thought we had better go and finish packing and get to bed.

WEDNESDAY
It seemed to rain all night really hard and it made such a noise. I probably didn't sleep very well as I knew we had to be up early and it was so dark when we did get up.

The taxi arrived and off we went in the rain. We arrived at the airport and Heather and I went in one direction and Jon headed for Business check in!!! He had upgraded us and we didn't know so at least we wouldn't be so uncomfortable on the return journey. After check in we were told we could use the first class lounge but as the immigration staff had not started yet we couldn't go through, none of the staf apart from check in and baggage and the cafe start till 7.00 and it was only 5.30 and it was so hot and humid. We had a coffee and then eventually the airport started to wake up and we went through. We had some money left and Heather and I wanted to buy some sweets or biscuits for the office and the shop but there was nothing much from Vanuatu apart from coffee everything else came from Oz so we ended up with a beer glass for Jon, a shell magnet, a few postcards and a lonely Planet book on Pidgin.

We waited in the lounge and by now it was pouring with rain. Our flight was called and they had to bring out umbrellas to get everyone over to the plane. They had about ten which some young lad had to keep bringing back. It was a good job the plane was not too full or we could have been there for a long time.

We were the only three in Business with two crew to look after us. Air Vanuatu is as poor as the country and our welcome aboard drink of orange juice was cordial and not very nice. The flight was good and I had smoked salmon and poached eggs for my breakfast. Jon and Heather went for the other option which was sausage and steak. Not sure why Heather went for that as she didn't really like it. It got very bumpy closer to NZ and we had to wear seatbelts but on the whole not bad and took less than three hours.

It was not as cold as I thought it would be in Auckland and we just had to cross the road and we were at the hotel car park and loaded the cases. We went intot he Novotel for a coffee and then set off home.

We got back about three after stopping in Paeroa for lunch.

Heather and I went to the supermarket and then went to pick Tot up from kennels and she was so happy to see us she jumped up on the gate and cut her paw so they had to sort that out before we came home.

I cooked some fish for Jon and I and Heather had a chicken burger. We watched a bit of TV and then had an early night as we were so tired. Back to work tomorrow for Jon and Heather.

The spell check is not working so not sure how many mistakes there will be.